Tuesday, 27 October 2015

FMS403DBBEAUTYSALMONM/ Photographer Research x Helmut Newton.



Helmut Newton.
Helmut Newton is best known for his works as a photographer for Vogue. After working for many years as a photographer and creating commissioned work for Vogue and Harpers Bazaar, Newton developed a particular photographic style that was erotic and masochistic, some have claimed that he created the 'New Nude'. One of his most famous works is that incredible 'le smoking'.
Elsa Peretti in Halston Bunny Costume
Helmut Newton
1975.
http://partnouveau.com/?p=1385


 


Le smoking for Yves Saint Laurent,
Helmut Newton
1975.
http://www.icon-icon.com/en/helmut-newtons-photograph-le-smoking-yves-saint-laurent.html



Helmut Newton Vogue 1977

I love the style of Helmut Newton's photographs, they scream glamour, sex and class all in one. They all seem to have a classic, timeless feel to them which makes you want to be part of the moment and look beautiful like the models in his images. He seems to use a really simple lighting and a very dark contrast in his images which really makes the image pop. 





















 

FMS403DBBEAUTYSALMONM x Photographic Lighting.

What are the different types of Lighting for Photo shoots?

Natural Lighting;
Most flattering form of light lighting. Can be created by taking photographs of subject outside, indoors, near a window or using a reflector to bounce the natural light on subject.

Window Lighting;
Diffused window lighting creates a calm and relaxed feel to an image and the light can be enhanced and focused on your subject through the use of reflectors.

Outdoor Lighting;
Worst type of lighting for portraiture photography. Can cause heavy lines and shadowing on your subject if in focus of direct sunlight. 

Ambient Lighting;
This is man made background lighting, created by lamps, ceiling lights, wall scones and floor lamps.

Lighting Studio and soft box lighting;
Lights created to enhance light and brightness in a shoot. Great for close ups and portraiture.

High Key Lighting VS Low Key Lighting 

High key;
- Bright 
-Vivid
-Contrast
-Pop of colours

Low Key;
Window light
Natural
One light 

FMS403DBBeautySalmonM Digital Production.

In todays Digital Production lesson I learnt a lot about how brands in the makeup industry and cosmetic world, rely a lot on computer retouching to perfect beauty portraiture for their campaigns.
A lot of retouching used on iconic models we see promoting and wearing lipstick for premium cosmetic and fashion brands such as 'Dior', are very unrealistic. Because of false advertisement of these models that are retouched so much that they appear to look like a completely different person, many women and young girls in particular focus and obsess on their imperfections and appearance based on these unrealistic and 'perfectly symmetrical' looks that are seen 'acceptable' and 'beautiful'.

At the beginning of the lesson, in groups we all took images of our partners and our self, one being a normal selfie or portrait picture and then another image experimenting with how we can retouch the face. We continuously retouched the face until it gradually looked very different to the original photo, whilst at the same time recording the number of changes we made and what types of changes e.g. skin, eyes, facial shape. I realised that I made more changes on my self portrait then my partners, focusing on smoothing my skin and slimming my face slightly, after experimenting I felt that I looked worse after retouching and even a little scary as I looked nothing like me. This experiment can be used to argue that beauty is definitely is in the eye of the beholder, as many of my peers in my class agreed that a lot of people looked much better natural and without retouching. Ever since we have started to discuss retouching in our digital production lessons, I have realised that whenever I now see beauty or fashion campaigns that feature a models face close up some of these images look borderline creepy and doll like.

Although, I agree that a certain 'look' fits a theme of a shoot and that means you must consider all factors for your shoot such as hair, make-up and race in terms of your model, I am very against extreme false advertising and retouching to the limit were it looks like any person could have been in the campaign model or not, because the model is so retouched. For me that is where retouching is completely ridiculous. Also when I'm in a cosmetic store and I happen to see advertisements or examples of makeup products on models, I know for a fact that a make-up look or product will look different on everyone, but that does not mean that they should enhance this product in their advertisements to make it look more appealing. 

We also touched on 'westernised beauty' and how these days premium cosmetic brands creating beauty campaigns have started to use a computer generated program to make women faces appear ideally beautiful and acceptable for westernised society. One thing that I wasn't aware of and learnt was that this is only for caucasian ethnicity, which automatically discriminates against any other ethnicity and wipes away any characteristics and unique facial features that makes a person 'them' and human and leaves them looking like a westernised 'clone'. This is a big issue that not only affects
 women and young girls in society today but also models of ethnicity. Still to this day ethnic models are faced with ignorant and discriminative backlash even if they are working for one of best brands in the industry. 

For example recently the worldwide famous Rihanna became the 'First Black Spokesperson for Dior', for this bothered me simply because why must there be such a focus on her race why not just her beauty? Although this is great that Dior have opened there doors to more diverse ethnicities, but why must the focus be on race as if it is such a big achievement to be acknowledged even though your black? The model Jordan Dunn has also had many experiences in her career where she has had to bring and apply her own foundation to a shoot or fashion show, because her makeup artist had foundations to cater for all the caucasian and olive skin models, but only one 'brown' shade for her. I feel strongly about this because it effects young girls more then we think, my niece for example, on numerous occasions has compared herself to famous singers such as Beyonce and Rihanna, claiming that she doesn't really like her skin colour that much or her hair because it isn't 'light enough' or 'straight' like theirs, but she has no idea how much work they've had to look like that.

This also supports beauty is really in the eye of the beholder as women such a Jordan Dunn that I find extremely beautiful wouldn't even be featured in this computer generated program that make woman the ideal western beauty. Although extreme retouching is misleading and bad, we as make-up artists have a huge role to play when enhancing or changing something about our model for a photoshoot. If we apply too much contour or highlight that slims the face so much they look different already, and then this enhanced even more by photoshop retouching, it can be argued that make is just as bad.
For example in a recent lesson I learnt that Italian women in the Tudor times where said to be 'painted ladies' as they wore so much make-up. This became such a problem that men began to argue they were being mislead as their wives looked completely different once married and seen in their natural skin.

FMS403DBBeautySalmonM Digital Production x Studio Lighting.

Recent practical lesson notes.

Photography studio and lighting essentials -

- Heavy boom; this is the stable weighted crane that holds and directs your lighting, it can extend and be turned in any direction
-Beauty Dish; this is a 'hard' source of light but to create a softer light you can use a diffuser with the dish e.g. a softer light for a portrait shot of a face, also creates more contrast
-Sink lead; this is what makes 'flash lighting'
-Tethering cable; this can be used in conduction with capture 1 stations
- Jpeg files always create two different copies of your original image
- An 85 lens is good for portraiture/ face shots where as a 50 lens is better for wider shots
-Chris recommends to shoot Raw Files

Cannon Camera Settings-

Menu>Quality> (Look for triangle symbol with small L next to it)(Uncompressed jpeg)>shoot raw or large jpeg.

Camera settings and accessories -

In my most recent practical lesson Chris showed us to lenses that he was going to use as examples with his camera; a 50ml and 85ml these lenses are glass and prime and cannot be used to zoom in and out of shots meaning you must move the camera or model closer or further. Before starting your photo-shoot it is important to check that your camera is at a correct height in consideration of your model and the angle you want to capture. When taking portraiture photographs it is essential to set your camera to the manual setting and also make sure it is on the portrait angle. The camera Iso needs to be set to the number 100 and the shutter speed; 1/160.

I got the chance to see the effects of things like 'silver reflectors', I found the silver reflector created a really beautiful affect to a portraiture shot as it produced a extra glow alongside lighting and really brought out a shine in a models eyes. You use the silver reflector on the sides on the face and under the face from the chin upwards, it is normally handheld in shots. Although sometimes this can be to harsh and create non existent shadowing. You can also use the adjacent side of the silver reflector which is a more dull white opaque material that produces a nice glow but not as intense. The 'spill kill' can be used in shoots to hold and focus light in one place, I think this is nice to use when possibly focusing on something in particular in your shot e.g. make-up, lips, eyes.

A 'shoot through brolly' allows you to create a soft light that focuses on your subject. You would use the shoot through brolly by attaching the end of it to the heavy boom and then adjusting the direction of the heavy boom, when using this brolly you may have to move the heavy boom closer to your model as it creates such soft lighting. If the shoot through brolly creates an underexposed picture, you can edit the lighting on light to a higher setting. You want to make sure your lighting is always higher then your camera.

FMS403SalmonM Digital Production x The Uncanny Valley.

What is the Uncanny Valley?
The Uncanny Valley is a hypothesis created by the Japanese professor Masahiro Mori (1970), discussing that when someones "features look and move almost, but not exactly, like human beings it causes a respond of revulsion among some observers." This basically implies that when something looks too perfect it looks extremely creepy. When I recently learnt this in a seminar I was really shocked that this hypothesis actually existed, as I had always thought to myself of how certain magazine models look so symmetrically perfect that it resembled a mannequin and appeared strange. This hypothesis is something to consider when retouching my imagery and final photographs as I want my model to appear human and themselves. I find this hypothesis important when considering post production and also fashion and beauty advertisement as it explains why models and women we see in campaigns appear to be overly perfect and dominantly all have westernised features, no character or uniqueness, just a clone. 

I find the Uncanny Valley interesting but also scary, I feel that it is an important hypothesis that can prove that perfect symmetry appears more creepy then attractive in facial features and very unrealistic as it is only mainly found it robots. 




This website gave me some amazing and appalling images that showed just how extreme post production can get, completely removing a person characters making them appear a different person.

http://www.buzzfeed.com/jenniferschaffer/can-brain-scans-reveal-what-you-wish-you-looked-like#.hy1oBKmPl







Uncanny Valley Robot Videos - These two links show video sources of different examples of Masahiro Mori's hypothesis of the Uncanny Valley, I also found it interesting that this is seen is animations as well as robots and post production (photoshop retouching).

 http://www.strangerdimensions.com/2013/11/25/10-creepy-examples-uncanny-valley/
http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2015-08/14/uncanny-valley-robot-videos

References.
http://spectrum.ieee.org/automaton/robotics/humanoids/an-uncanny-mind-masahiro-mori-on-the-uncanny-valley
http://www.strangerdimensions.com/2013/11/25/10-creepy-examples-uncanny-valley/
http://www.psy.gla.ac.uk/~frank/Documents/InSearchUncannyValley.pdf
http://www.bbc.com/future/story/20130901-is-the-uncanny-valley-real

FMS403DBBeautySalmonM Digital Production x Old Methods of retouching.

Retouching has been existent since the 1860's and before photoshop, the processing and editing of photographs were much more fun and creative. On my previous course I was able to use different sources other then a digital camera such as a dark room which I loved, and I think although slower then a digital camera, made the process of picture production more worth while and exciting. Before computer programming like Photoshop, photo retouching was made with the use of things like ink, paint, using darkrooms to form together negatives with photos and also the method of double exposure.

Raymond Wardell was a talented artist, well known for his skills in photographic retouching. Wardell published his own book ( Wardell, Raymond Shortcuts to Photo Retouching For Commercial Use, 1946).Which demonstrated step by step the process and tools used to traditionally retouch photographs. At the beginning of photographic retouching, the primary majority of photographic imagery was processed into black and white, so the techniques used to retouch were mostly for that kind of colour image. Wardell's techniques and examples he shows in his book are fascinating and its so interesting to see how something that can be digital corrected in under ten minutes today, took as long as creating a intricate oil painting back then.

Here are a list of interesting ingredients and tools used to create traditional retouching, compared to simply downloading photoshop -
- 'Library paste'
-'Gelatine sheets or capsules'
-'Drawing table'
-'Retouch grey paint'
-'Rubber cement'
-Rubber Roller'
-'White water colour paint'
-'Paint brushes'
-'Photo glossy colour'
-'Absorbent colour'
(Wardell, Raymond Shortcuts to Photo Retouching For Commercial Use, 1946).









Website References discussing different retouching for certain era's -
http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/news/4723172/victorian-images-trick-photography.html
http://io9.com/the-amazing-world-of-photo-editing-before-photoshop-461170976
http://creativepro.com/scanning-around-with-gene-the-old-way-of-photo-retouching/
http://petapixel.com/2014/10/17/beauty-retouching-early-1900s-portrait-actress-joan-crawford-thats-photoshopped/

Digital Image Production x Taking beauty portraits.


Took beauty portraits in the studio 


- Toby, movement
- hands near the face
- Soft box lighting
-Umbrella
- naked lighting
- poses (more beauty acceptable less passport)